What is in a name? The name mother contains more meaning than most. When there is trouble, mother comes to mind. And when there is triumph, the pattern repeats itself. Mother is the heart of any matter.
And so it began for Manuel Saucedo, owner of Madrez Caf茅 -- named in tribute and thanks to his mother.
In 2010, he opened a little snack shop in Playa del Carmen, Mexico, where the gorditas grew in popularity. It was his mother鈥檚 recipe -- an enormous, versatile, thick tortilla with a pocket for stuffing various fillings.
鈥淚 wanted to do something with what I had eaten growing up -- gorditas,鈥� Saucedo said. 鈥淢om made them from flour and corn. Hers were bigger, and she called them 'madrez,' the word for mother. Lightly crisped and stuffed, it was our go-to. The best is rajas poblano and cheese, and to this day, it鈥檚 the most amazing dish we鈥檝e ever had, probably, because it鈥檚 hers.鈥�
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"We鈥檙e so blessed to have the reviews that we have. We鈥檙e very fortunate to have the people that we have. Coming from such a small town in Mexico to what we have now, it鈥檚 truly a blessing.鈥� -- Manuel Saucedo,聽Madrez Caf茅
Saucedo has expanded his Playa restaurant to disparate locations in Flagstaff and Elkhorn, Wisconsin, with his mother Virginia鈥檚 trademark roasted peppers in cream sauce crowning the menu. Across the locations, items overlap 60 to 70%, according to Saucedo, but menus are tailored to the area.
鈥淎ll of our family was raised in northern Arizona, in Flagstaff, and in high school I got started with food and cooking. Judy Davis, a culinary instructor, got me involved,鈥� he remembered.
The program offered practical instruction, and students competed. Over three years, Saucedo won gold and silver medals. Then, through affiliation with the American Culinary Federation, he met local chefs, such as John Conley and Paul Moir.
Like so many practically trained cooks, his career started humbly as a dishwasher, progressing to sous-chef with stints at Cottage Place, Josephine鈥檚 and Brix, where the restaurant won a James Beard nomination during his first year. Saucedo then traveled to Mexico and Canada to find his path.
One of the signature menu items is a product of his wife Katy鈥檚 chemistry: the waffles. The batter owes its slightly sour and lighter structure to natural fermentation. The waffles go from the iron to the griddle for a final crisping. The basic waffle comes with fruit and Greek yogurt, while a savory option offers fried eggs, bacon and cheese. There are others with an avocado and chipotle twist or chorizo and Serrano crema.
Saucedo's brother Miguel operates Flagstaff, and the birria tacos are his recipe. The brisket is braised for 10 hours until tender and served with broth for dipping. Skimmed fat from the juice is splashed on the grill before laying out the corn tortilla and loading it with brisket and cheese. Like all lunch items, it is served with house frijoles, churros and salsa.
Burrito choices run the gamut of breakfast goods from fluffy eggs, chorizo, beans, bacon and chilies to sausage, hash browns and veggie fillings of spinach, tomato and mushroom. There are bagel sandwiches, including traditional eggs, bacon, tomato, avocado and cream cheese or huevos a la Mexicana, bean spread and avocado in a bolillo casero.
Breakfast is served all day, and it鈥檚 no wonder, Madrez boasts it is 鈥渢he best breakfast spot, hands down.鈥�
The kitchen is scratch, utilizing fresh ingredients and local vendors. Warming items such as posole and tamales feature in winter, and refreshing limeades showcase flavors year-round.
鈥淲e squeeze the limes, add house simple syrup and whatever fruit is in season -- fig, mango, strawberry, raspberry, blackberry -- then, shake and serve,鈥� Saucedo said.
At Madrez Caf茅, family makes everything possible. While Saucedo handles the Midwest with new locations on the horizon, brothers Juan and Miguel manage Playa and Flagstaff. Sister-in-law Maria makes the tortillas by hand. The art in all locations is produced by younger brother Francisco. And after 20-plus years in the food industry, father Jose recently retired and joined the crew.
鈥淗e does everything for us -- the store, the dishes -- everything and anything we need, he does it,鈥� Saucedo said and laughingly added. 鈥淎nd he yells at us.鈥�
Virginia is there every weekend, making sure Madrez is up to her standards. The family hosts an annual family retreat in Central Mexico to talk about menu ideas, additions and plans.聽
Saucedo is cognizant and grateful, emphasizing that everyone plays a part.
鈥淭he main thing is family. All I鈥檝e done is to help family -- they are always first -- and there is a tightness we have now.鈥�