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In every drugstore, supermarket, and beauty supply store, you will find an entire section dedicated to skin care. Nestled between body washes and dental hygiene lie rows of creams, cleansers, serums, and topical ointments, all with the marketed purpose of curing or preventing skin insecurities.

The skin is the largest organ of the human body, referred to in the biology world as the integumentary system. It is layers of cells compacted together with different makeups and functions.

The skin is also a major part of who we are as individuals. Melanin, blemishes, sunburns, spots, and wrinkles are all features of our physical appearance that others notice first. It plays a strong role, whether we like it or not, in how we are perceived, which is more often the reason why so many people put effort into the care and maintenance of their skin.

The ideal skin type, as defined by society and the media, is commonly depicted as flawless, devoid of wrinkles and blemishes, and occasionally lacking pores and texture, the majority of which is natural. In an attempt to mirror this ideal skin, people start using a variety of products, some prescribed by licensed professionals and others by celebrity endorsers.

Skin Concerns

The most common skin concerns among individuals include acne and wrinkles, sometimes referred to as “signs of aging.�

Acne is a buildup in the pores of sebum and dead skin cells. Sebum is a naturally occurring oil that helps to lubricate the skin to prevent drying and cracking. Hormones, age, bacteria, and internal inflammation can all cause or heighten the presence and longevity of acne.

Wrinkles are caused by the natural breakdown of collagen and elastic fibers that occurs as we age. Both of these components contribute to the skin's flexibility and ability to maintain its shape. Along with this natural breakdown, as we age, our skin thins and cells no longer regenerate and shed as frequently, resulting in reduced elasticity and wrinkles. Things like UV exposure, as well as our repeated facial expressions, can all have an effect on wrinkle formation.

From these common skin insecurities arises the question of treatments. Some of the more popular treatments that have emerged in recent years that claim to aid in these skin insecurities are retinols and retinoids, the consumption of oral supplements such as collagen, and vitamin C serums.

Retinoids/Retinols

Retinoids and retinols are promoted as anti-aging treatments for the face and surrounding skin. The distinction between the two is that retinoids are prescribed by professionals who have examined the skin and found a clinical percentage for a patient, whereas retinols are market-based and available without a prescription.

Synthetically made � usually derived from Vitamin A and combined with natural sources � these chemical compounds, found in creams and serums, are formulated in a way that accelerates cellular turnover within the skin.

As explained in the book “Cosmetic Formulation of Skin Care Products� by cosmetic chemists Zoe Diana Draelos and Lauren A. Thaman, these formulas increase the thickness of the skin and can inhibit the natural enzymes that break down collagen in the skin with age. The effects of this thickening agent have been shown to reduce the appearance of wrinkles and, in some cases, regenerate cells fast enough to help clear acne.

Despite the seemingly miraculous effects of this treatment, there are undeniable side effects.

Denese Lovvorn, a licensed aesthetician and owner of The Petite Beauty Suite in Mesa, Arizona, describes it as such: "Typically, when we are using retinols from physicians, those tend to be at higher percentages and a pure retinol form...but because they have that higher strength, they can cause side effects such as serious photo-sun sensitivity, redness, irritation in the skin, and often dryness and peeling as well.�

Collagen

Collagen is a natural protein found in the body that helps preserve structure and flexibility. It is found in joints, hair, tendons, and skin, where it promotes flexibility and appearance by allowing new cells to proliferate while pushing away old and dead ones.

In more recent years, the consumption of collagen in liquid and powder form has been promoted as a skin care supplement for slowing and even reversing the cosmetic effects of aging and improving overall appearance. Considering the important role of collagen in the skin, many people seeking treatment for their concerns and insecurities have begun to add supplemental collagen to their diets.

A 2022 study titled “Collagen Supplements for Aging and Wrinkles: A Paradigm Shift in the Fields of Dermatology and Cosmetics� found that both oral and topical collagen can improve the appearance of skin by reducing wrinkles. However, all studies thus far have not taken into account varying age groups, environmental circumstances such as UV exposure, and different skin types, meaning that the effects of collagen supplements will vary from person to person. The researchers do, however, discuss the importance of collagen throughout the body beyond the skin and how the particular amino acids needed for collagen production can be found in the average protein consumption we see today.

Vitamin C

Vitamin C serums claim to brighten the face by reducing dark spots and discoloration while maintaining the natural skin color. Parents and doctors have long emphasized the importance of vitamin C for children and adults alike. Citrus and other common fruits and vegetables have been proven to contain this vital vitamin, but it wasn’t until recently that the skin care industry moved this vitamin from something to consume to something applicable as a topical solution to skin insecurities.

Unlike the vitamin C that we eat, topical solutions containing vitamin C are designed in a certain way that makes them useful as skin care products.

Lovvorn explains that “when cosmetic chemists are formulating, they are pulling the chirally correct portion of whatever those vitamins are to be able to ensure that it is going to be beneficial to the skin, it’s not going to be an irritant to the skin, and it can be properly absorbed and utilized by the skin.�

Beyond the topical use of vitamin C, it serves as an important component of our lives because of its function as an antioxidant, a molecule that stops the chemical process of oxidation from occurring within the body. Oxidation is a process that produces free radicals, which can be harmful to important molecules in the body such as DNA, lipids, and proteins, each of which are components of the overall appearance of the skin.

Dr. Alvin Altimirano, a biochemistry professor at NAU, says that beyond their uses as a skin care treatment, “vitamins that also act as antioxidants (A, C, and E) support overall health, not just skin health."

Examining the Root Cause

Despite the array of topical and consumable treatments promoted by skin care specialists, in more recent years, both researchers and practitioners have begun to more closely examine the root cause of skin concerns. The most common root cause comes from within the body, beyond the layers of the skin.

Lovvorn explains that “when we see inflammation on the surface, that is going to be the physical representation of something that is already inflamed or irritated within the body.�

A 2023 research article by Jinguan Yang titled “The connection between organ systems and skin health in Chinese medicine� explores the long-held beliefs within traditional Chinese medicine. The article describes overall skin health as a mirror of both lung and intestinal health, further explaining that collagen health throughout the body is reflective of liver and gallbladder health. The more unique tie that arises from these practices is that unhealthy emotional regulation and stress that a person could be experiencing will further affect these organs and ultimately the appearance of the skin.

Individuals can obtain supported evidence on how to effectively treat their skin by reviewing all possibilities and investigating the probable underlying causes of skin concerns and insecurities. They can also visit a range of professionals and even delve deeper into themselves, their habits, their meals, and their routines.

“If you want to improve or maintain your skin health, focus on the intake of nutrient-rich foods that also support overall health," suggests Altimirano.

While topical treatments can help with skin difficulties, there are far more options for skin health and beauty than drugstore serums, creams, and supplements. What we eat and how we care for our bodies all have an impact on the health of our skin and overall well being.