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Matters of Taste: Hankerin'

Our relationship with food is complex, and too often, it becomes a moral dilemma, involving good foods and bad foods. But can’t eating be more neutral? Put directly, why can’t that drive provide pleasure, and in turn, satisfaction? Our basic survival is dependent upon it. When a craving occurs, no substitutions will sway us—only that thing will do. But where to turn to satisfy that craving?

Hankerin� opened in August 2021 to curb a craving. “The theme—the name of the place—is a menu full of cravings,� said owner Chas Townsend. “It’s what I like to eat when going out.� The green Chile chili burger is a perfect example. Townsend fell for a similar burger on a trip to Durango, so it had to be on the menu. He made regular trips to Cameron for the fry bread tacos, so the native taco, a Northern Arizona must, piles fluffy fry bread with house chili, lettuce, tomato, onion, cheddar cheese, green chiles and sour cream. It’s a big seller. “These are things I crave. The elote is for my wife.� The Mexican street corn fave comes on a stick with mayo, cotija cheese, butter and a special chili powder blend.





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